More than a decade after two earthquakes devastated the city, it is being rebuilt and reimagined. Some of the eye-catching blue-stone heritage buildings may have gone, but in their place are new spaces, designed for modern city living. This includes more green spaces, with the biggest a swath of land twice the size of Central Park in New York.

For most cities, their historical architecture seems at odds with its modern counterparts. Here, the two meld harmoniously together. A fact that is mirrored in the city’s cultural life. If you want art, restaurants, and accommodation (or just an attitude and way of life) that look back or forward in time, or both together, this is where you’ll find it. In short, this a city that often surprises and is always hard to leave.